Apples, anyone?

So I made a discovery at the grocery store yesterday. The Canada Apple. I haven't had an apple since we left Canada, and I'm missing a good old McIntosh, so I thought I'd give it a try.

First of all, I have never seen an apple like this in my life. Its not red, and not green, but a brownish green colour. And the skin has a texture, reminiscent of a kiwi. Anyway, it definetly wasn't the best apple I'd ever had...but I'm not a huge fan of Delicious apples, and it kind of had a texture like that inside.

Just thought everyone would like to know that Canada is well represented here...in the food form, anyway (Quebec Maple Syrup also seems to be quite popular. It even has its own section on the Canadian Embassy in France website. Canadian Foods and Maple Syrup. We're so proud!)

P.S. Apparently the apple has a real name! Mom has just informed me that it is likely a russett apple, and one of my Grandma's favorites! There you go. Here's a picture (of the Golden Russett, couldn't find the regular one)

What did you say?

So, I've decided to start a list of words that we learned in French, but that the French don't actually use.

1. Fin de semaine. People don't know what we're talking about when we say this. You have to say 'week end'.

2. Chien chaud. Nope, its a good old hot dog here in France.

3. Biscuits? No, I'd rather have les cookies, s'il vous plait.

I'll add more as they come. We've also found that just saying a word in English with a French accent works sometimes, if we're desperate.

Again, I spoke too soon.

Yup, its snowing, and its sticking.

The Great Race

Stairs 1, Elevator 0

I spoke too soon

It snowed! Not the sticking around kind of snow, more like the big flaky raindrops kind. And I dutifully carried my umbrella around all day yesterday, only to be caught without it today, when I really needed it!


Went and looked at the Arc de Triomphe, very spectacular. Can't wait to go to the top and check out the "etoile" (traffic star) from above. Then I walked down the Champs Elysses. Some highlights included people queuing to get into the Louis Vuitton store, and the car dealerships that had crazy Christmas displays inside. So much so that I wasn't sure what they were selling at first till I looked at the signs...Peugot. Renault. Duh. That would explain why the shiny new car is in the middle of everything. For some reason the Toyota dealership wasn't looking very festive. Must be a French thing. I also thought it was kind of funny to even have car dealerships on the street. Imagine Bloor St. in Yorkville with a Toyota storefront in between Chanel and Gucci.

I also felt very Parisian when I was able to help someone with directions in the subway station. Well, maybe not directions, but I was able to tell her what station she was at. In French, of course. Unfortunately couldn't tell the other two ladies that asked me for help where the Grand Palais was. I'll look for that one day when I'm not soaking wet.

C'est tout!

Now the question is do I go back out into the snow to scrounge up some food for dinner, or should we just have crepes?

The Daily Grind

I realized that I hadn't written lately, and I know some people (Mom and Howard...) might check this fairly regularly, so I thought I'd treat you to a quick update.

Its been a quiet week. Erik has been working "Japanese salary-man" style, meaning he's out of the house as the sun rises (6:45!), and doesn't get home until about 7:30 (thats 19h30 for those of us trying to get used to the 24h clock:)). Quite a change from the schedule he kept in Toronto, and will definetly take some getting used to. The commute doesn't help either.

Anyway, this means I've been left to my own devices to poke around the city and get to know it better. I'm becoming a pro on the metro, and it really is quite convenient. I have to say after using it here, and the one in Tokyo, that anyone who comes to Toronto from a major city must laugh at our subway line. You really can't compare. We are within walking distance of three subway stops, on two different lines, and with a pass, there's no stopping me!

My mornings are usually spent writing cover letters and sending resumes. As much fun as it sounds, by around noon I'm ready for a change of scenery. So, depending on the contents of our fridge, its a quick meal here, or out to the boulangerie for a sandwich, or down to the corner for a crepe (I've had one every day now...I think I'm out of control. They're just so good!). Then I consult the trusty Lonely Planet subway map, and I'm off. Lots of wandering, I never bring a map with me, and all the subway stations have big maps outside. I haven't gotten hopelessly lost yet.

One day I went to Luxembourg Gardens, which is a huge expanse of nature in the middle of the downtown. Its pretty amazing. Complete with pond and kids sailing sailboats, five tennis courts, pony rides for kids, and paths around the perimeter for walking and running, and I know that I haven't seen it all. The grass is immaculate (but you can't walk on it!), and the there are well maintained flowers throughout. I even saw an interesting snow-plowesque machine that was being used to scoop up the leaves. Next time I will bring something to read, and just relax for an afternoon.

The other day I went window shopping, and ended up on Blvd Haussman with all the big department stores. The two that I happened to walk past (Le Printemps and Galleries Lafayette) had gone completely Christmas crazy. It was amazing! Not only do they have fantastic motorized window displays, complete with raised viewing areas for kids, but the overhang on the sidewalk is completely decorated in metallic shapes and decorations. This goes on for about three blocks for each store! I'm definetly going back, because I'm sure there are lights involved too, and I'll bring my camera this time.

Erik and I went back up to Sacre Coeur the other day to see it lit up at night, and I think its even prettier that way.


We've also discovered a square in our neighbourhood that is completely taken over with artists selling their work, and doing portraits for the tourists. I think I took a picture of that today, hold on...


Today I actually went inside Sacre Coeur. What a magical experience. There was actually a mass going on, but people were still wandering through. It was nice to stand and listen for a bit, and enjoy the vastness of the inside, with all the stained glass and domed ceilings.

Hmm...I feel like I'm forgetting something...but it's obviously slipped my mind. Last night we made the mistake of buying baguette sans sel (salt), which could easily translate into baguette sans taste. We won't be doing that again.

Well, I guess that's it. I hear there's been snow back home, and I have to say that I'm not too sorry to have missed it. I'm sure it will find its way over here, but until then, I get to keep pretending that it's fall.

Thanks Joan for the countdown email...you guys are the best at keeping track of dates. First the wedding, now until your visit. We're really looking forward to having everyone here.

Take care, and keep in touch.
Torie :)

A new addiction...

Crepes with Nutella. I'm in big trouble!

Adventures in French Beaurocracy...

Today we go get our Cartes de Sejour. This should be an interesting adventure, considering how unhelpful the French Consulate was in Canada. We will update you with all the juicy details, après un café.

Bonne journée!

Ok. Wait till you hear about our day! Erik has insisted on writing this one, but lets just say, it was a journée comme les Français! Complete with a restoratif on the way home. And we thought the Consulate in Canada was bad! Lets just say that Erik's 'Scientist' label affords him quite a bit of status. Apparently his head is 'trop plein' (too full...as in he's too smart) to have to deal with these people. Straight out of the receptionist's mouth.

Torie accepts no liability for anything written after this point.

According to the Lonely Planet, the first version of Paris started in 300BC, but unlike french wine, bureaucracy does not get sweeter with age. To stay in France, a visa is not enough - one also needs a Carte de Sejour, which translates simply as "Extra Thing". To get this "extra thing", you need to go to the Police prefecture. Judging by the prefecture waiting room (which torie never got to see despite waiting in the line this morning for an hour and a half) France seems to be a popular destination. Especially if you don't have the appropriate documentation.

We sat in the waiting room for 1.5 hours this afternoon, and most peoples' strategy was to walk up to the counter with a stained napkin and request that they be made mayor. We saw many asylum seekers, one Polish french teacher who was being forced to work as a maid or give up her welfare, and a man who was told that he had been in the country since 2002 without a visa and even though he owned a restaurant in Paris, he needed to reapply from Vietnam.

Luckily the waiting room was equipped with a coffee machine, which produces better espresso than most Starbucks ... and for 0.35E no less. Between coffee and the entertaining battle between the overheated receptionist opening the window vs. the freezing cold patrons closing it, the wait passed quickly. I was told by Dr Zuk that the Ecole Polytechnique name would open doors, but that was the first time that I saw it in action. Once I was determined to be un scientifique, it was considered below me that I have to deal with this anymore. I was told to tell my host to take care of all this, and that as Torie said, my head was too full to concern myself with this. We were told to get out of there, let the host worry about it, and that we were special.. very very special... just like our mothers told us.

Luckily, France is filled with locations meant for washing the bad taste of bureaucracy out of one's mouth, and we took advantage. A few glasses of wine at a brasserie on the walk home, a walk to the top of Montmartre and a beautiful night time view the Eiffel Tower, and walking home down the steps of the Butte, a bottle of darn fine 3Euro wine, and suddenly the love affair with France begins anew.

Ok. I'm having problems with this whole 'adding photos' thing, so you'll have to bear with me. The text actually starts at the heading "Le Tour Eiffel", if you want to scroll down to the middle of the blog and start reading from there.

In this picture, you can see Sacre Coeur in the background (its the shapes sticking up on the hill...basically the highest points). Thats our neighbourhood.




















Here are some more shots . We didn't climb all the way up, as it was fairly late in the afternoon, so these pictures were all taken from the first level. These are all things that we still have to see, so I'll just give the guide book explanations.


This is one of many bridges across the Seine.
I think this dome is Hotel des Invalides, but anyone who had been here can correct me.
This is the awesome park that leads up to the tower. Isn't it huge? We couldn't believe how green the grass still was! It looks like a golf course! Called Parc du Champ de Mars.



La Tour Eiffel


After an exciting morning shopping at the market (so much good food, such a small area!), Erik and I decided to head downtown and check out one of Paris' most visible landmarks.

The tower itself is at the end of a HUGE park, where there were kids playing and sitting on donkeys (?). It made for a very dramatic approach to the amazing tower.

I have to say, it may not be as tall at the CN tower, but it sure looks a heck of a lot nicer, and is it ever interesting being up there and being to see straight down! I have to say the climb down was much scarier than going up. Its all open, so you can see down to the ground the whole time. I don't know what it is, but for some reason being able to see all the way to the ground freaks me out!

On our way home, at the metro station Abesses. This spiral staircase is covered in graffiti and is the only way down the the platform. Kind of creepy if you're not sure where you're going. I have to say that Paris sure has a lot of stairs! It makes you realize how flat other places are, and how much we rely on escalators and elevators.

Thats it for now! We bought some great stuff this morning, and Erik is making his famous risotto. Although we haven't been blown away by anything we've eaten here so far, we can't stop talking about how much different the things we bought today taste. The arugula is more peppery, the onion is sweeter, the garlic is juicier, and well the cheese is just delicious! We wish we could share it with all of you!

Hope you all had a nice weekend, and keep in touch. It's always nice to know whats going on in your lives.

Take care,
E+T

Crazy things about Paris:

1. bottles of wine at the grocery store for E1.05. It's pretty hard to avoid wine around here. We also had a half litre of house wine at dinner last night for E6.00. And its all been pretty good!
2. the handheld shower. What a terrible idea. Runs along the lines of the squat toilet in Japan. It's one of those 'what were they thinking?' ideas. And of course because I don't like it, I can think of many reasons why its a bad idea. Like, what do you do with the shower head while you wash your hair? Do you sit or stand (I've tried both, and they are both uncomfortable). How do you keep the water in the tub? How do you avoid tripping over the hose after you've carefully arranged yourself to not spray the water out of the tub?
3. lights on timers. The hallway in our building has light switches to turn the lights on. Unfortunately (or fortunately for whoever pays the electricity bill) the lights are timed, and if you happen to get caught on the stairs when the lights go out, watch out! Its pitch black until you get to the next switch! This is good exercise though, as it makes you pick up the pace on the way up.
4. its difficult to walk more than a block without seeing a nice bakery. And the pain au chocolat is to die for!
5. steak frites for E1.50. This is how much Erik paid at his cafeteria at work. Mind you, he said it wasn't great, but for 1.50, who cares?! And they also serve wine.
6. the separate toilet and bathroom. Sounds like a good idea until you try and wash your hands. Or flush the toilet while someone is using the shower (I suppose that's the one advantage of the handheld shower. Its alot easier to get out of the scalding hot stream. Mind you, then the floor gets wet...)

Stairs!

So, we are lucky enough to have a fabulous stairmaster in our apartment.


The only reason I can see to use this machine is if you never leave the house. There is a much more scenic and 'natural' stairmaster just outside our front door.

Our neighbourhood is quite hilly, and the dome at the top of Sacre Coeur is actually the highest point in Paris (this might explain why we are able to see the Eiffel Tower from our bedroom window). On our first walk, we were reminded of San Fransico.

Anyway, I thought I would share my new workout routine with all of you. It begins with these stairs.


These stairs bring you up to the side of Sacre Coeur, where there are more stairs to get to the basilica.


Here are some more pictures, just because it's so beautiful:



So, a trip down the stairs in front of Sacre Coeur brings you to tourist central (am I becoming a Paris snob already?:)), and it was fun to listen to the Japanese tourists (I picked out some 'Iie des ka's'--not quite sure how that related to the sightseeing, but who cares?)


Polish off the trip with a stop at the baguette store (sorry, no picture of that), and then up the stairs to our 5th (actually 6th, but the french start counting floors on the second) floor apartement. I think we're the only ones who actually take the stairs, as there is an elevator, but I figure its more fun than hanging out on the stairmaster in the bathroom.



Well, thats about it. I hope you enjoy the pictures, and stay tuned for more fun France experiences.

Well, we're here!

Exhausted, and a little disoriented, but we made it to our place with our 200+ lbs of luggage.

First of all, let me recommend that you don't fly American Airlines. It really was a fine flight, but for some reason, flying through Chicago really didn't make any sense (we were going the wrong way...plus a long layover). And the food was quite possibly the worst I've ever had. It will just make the Parisian kind taste that much better!

Well, our apartment is pretty awesome. We have literally just walked in the door (after making 4 trips up in the ancient elevator--its just big enough for one person and a suitcase. We had four), and wanted to share the views that we have from our windows. They might not be the nicest views in Paris, but they're really the only ones we've seen yet, and we think they're pretty awesome (by the way, flying into the city was so dissapointing! We were hoping to see some of Paris, but the plane somehow managed to completly avoid it, and we got to see farmers fields instead).


So, here you go. Enjoy, know that we're here safe, and we'll write more as soon as we've eaten (or maybe tomorrow).

Take care,
E+T