Saturday, July 08, 2006

Reims to Epernay

Day number two of our trip was a day of walking.

We (well, maybe I) had the great idea of doing some biking. There is a route touristique around the champagne region that goes through vineyards and small towns, and it seemed like we could do some biking along it, so we headed out bright and early for the bike rental place listed in the Lonely Planet. Turns out it was a bit farther than it seemed, and took us through some less than desireable neighbourhoods (but still interesting. We couldn't figure out the antique shop in between two porn shops). When we finally arrived at the bike place, it quickly became apparent that this was not a rental place. More like sales and repairs. But the staff humored us, and began pulling out bikes for us to 'rent'. But these bikes looked like they had been brought into the shop ten years ago for repairs, and never got fixed. Plus, they only had three. So we quickly vetoed that idea, and headed back into town to visit the surrender museum.

The surrender museum is part of a lycee in Reims that was used by the Americans during the Second World War. It also happens to be where the first unconditional surrender documents were signed by the Germans on May 7th, stating that all operations were to cease on May 8th. The museum is now closed off from the school, and contains a large selection of war memorabilia, and the map room, where the surrender was signed, maintained in perfect condition.

Here's a good picture of Erik really getting into it.




Being tourists on the way to Pommery

After the museum we decided to squeeze in one more tour before catching our train to Epernay. We headed for Pommery because it seemed to be the only one that stayed open over lunch. By the time we got there, we realized that it may stay open, but it doesn't run tours. But we were so hot and tired that we hung around for an hour and a half to wait for the tour. Pommery was the only house we visited that actually looked like a castle. The grounds were quite elaborate, and very beautiful. There was some kind of modern art exhibition going on, most of it in the cellars, which we found a bit strange, but apparently Mme. Pommery (she was a veuve too) was really into art, so this is apparently a way to honour her memory. We again had a private tour, but it was rushed because we had to get our train.

Erik's new favorite 'tour guide' pose outside the Pommery estate


One of the great chalk carvings that was in the cellar


Check out the size of these! I think they were Jeroboams.


Lovely arches


And of course a tasting. We all decided that we didn't really like Pommery. There was a lot of hype over all their products, and they are the creators of "Pop" the first champagne you can drink out of the bottle (right up our alley!). Our tour guide admitted that Pop wasn't really a good champagne (in fact we weren't even allowed to taste it), and the other ones that we tasted were just mediocre. Too bad it's so popular in France.

Once the tour was done, we rushed back to the hotel to grab our stuff, and a bottle of champagne for the ride. We got some kebab-frites sandwiches to enjoy on the train. The train ride was lovely, going through the vineyards, and we had our own private compartment, that made it easier for us to enjoy the Bollinger champagne that we had picked up.

Enjoying our kebab-frites


Enjoying the view

After we had checked into our hotel in Epernay, Daryl and Erik aka DandE tours, took us on a guided tour of the city. We quickly checked off the handful of things to do there other than drink champagne.


The handsome tour guides. Note the matching outfits.

And that was the end of day two. Stay tuned for the next episode of our adventures in Champagne...

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